Fashion Meetings

IN COLLABORATION WITH THE TUTORIAL GROUP OF THE MASTERS 1 DEGREE COURSE IN FASHION AND TEXTILE METIERS AT AIX-MARSEILLES UNIVERSITY (AMU)

16/11/2016


Au centre Dominique Barbiery, entouré des étudiants du Master Mode (AMU)

Created by the  Maison Méditerranéenne des Métiers de la Mode (MMMM), the Rencontres de la Mode-Fashion Contacts provide students on the Masters Degree in Fashion and Textile Métiers  course, and from the IICC Mode - International  Institute for Creation and Fashion Sewing private fashion school, as well as designers of the MMMM, with a series of conferences given by influential people in the Fashion industry. The first day of the Rencontres de la Mode-Fashion Contacts was at the Villa Méditerranée, with two guest speakers. The first was Jina Luciani the creator of OCCIDENTE, a 2016 M Major competition laureate, and the second Dominique Barbiery, Director of Mnufactures de Mode a subsidiary of Chanel, a partner of the MMMM, which preserves and promotes the heritage, craft and manufacturing skills of fashion artisan workshops. They talked about their exceptional careers and their innovative views on two major themes, ecology and the transmission of skills and know-how.

Jina Luciani - creator of OCCIDENTE – a 2016 M MAJOR competition Laureate
Jina Luciani, a young designer full of life with a contagious optimism, talked about her concept of creation and design, which can realistically be summed up in two words: ethics and aesthetics. The ecological lingerie and Yogawear garments she proposes are made from natural materials like cotton, silk and linen, which are, of course, accredited GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 for harmful substances. A real forerunner in her field, Jina Luciani is inspired by art, for the emotions she is capable of producing, and by architecture for the original volumes she creates. The main colours in her current collection are in tones of black, beige and white. Very concerned about the environment, the talented entrepreneur strongly favours fabrics made in France and makes everything in one place in Provence. Naturally curious, due to her penchant for travel, Jina Luciani sells her products around the world, in 15 countries including Japan, China, USA, and Dubaï and in Europe. But she still has her feet firmly on the ground and prefers a business which is successful but still defends her ethics and unequalled quality and technicity, rather than use mass production and see her values disappear. Always in line with current trends, Jina has a more than promising personality.  Keep your eye on this incredible designer!

Dominique Barbiery - Director of Paraffection S.A. and Deputy Director of Fashion Manufacturing at CHANEL, a partner of the MMMM
Dominique Barbiery, microphone in hand, shares his passion for the skills and know-how of the Métiers d’Art fashion artisanal craftsmanship division at Chanel, which groups together 10 Companies specialising in different arts and crafts: Georges Desrue, specialising in making buttons for Chanel; Lemarié and Guillet artisan plumassiers which work in ornamental feathers or plumes; Maison et Chapelier hatters, using felt, straw or fabric, with more than 300 hat forms; Lesage for embroidery; Massaro for handmade to measure shoes and boots; Goossens Paris creators of jewellery and ornaments; Montex known for their « architectural embroidery »; Causse makers of leather gloves since 1892 in the town of Millau in the French Midi-Pyrenees region in southern France; and Lognon with their famous pleats. They are the guardians of the skills and know-how that Dominique Barbiery is responsible for protecting and passing on to others every day. Educating, training and communicating with young people about these unique and ancestral crafts and métiers is the best way to save and protects them, as today they  have become very rare and precious. The worlds of fashion and luxury goods need these techniques, which, nevertheless, must in the future be innovative and adapt to our times. These two lovers of Métiers d’Art skills and crafts had the skills themselves to let us dream for a few moments and linger on the beauty of these trades, by presenting the Haute Couture creations of Yacine Aouadi where feathers and embroidery meet on exceptionally modern silhouettes. A talented designer discovered by the MMMM, who also organised the first public exhibition of his work at the MUCEM and at Château Borély, as part of the OPENMYMED Festival they held this year.

The second day of Rencontres de la Mode-Fashion Contacts at the Villa Méditerranée had as guest speakers the Architect from Marseilles Yvann Pluskwa, and Vincent Faraco, Co-founder of the label Végétalement Provence, accompanied by the label's Communications and Press Manager Marijke Zijlstra Samb. The speakers talked about their unique professional experiences and their corporate values, around 2 themes: commercial architecture and ecological cosmetics.

Yvann Pluskwa - Architect from Marseilles
Yvann Pluskwa is passionate about architecture. He illustrated the aim of architecture by talking about the discipline not only as a form of shelter for the body, but also for dreams. Architecture favours an exchange of ideas with the world which helps it provide sense and a message. Yvann Pluskwa brings a poetic dimension to society through his work in the architecture of fashion boutiques. He has successfully carried out 50 boutique projects for the Marseilles based group American Vintage, as well as boutiques for SugarStella Forest, Reiko, Allan-Joseph and Diam Factory. Very concerned about the imaginary showcase of a label, he works with the client to create the architecture which is closest to the label's DNA. For American Vintage, Yvann Pluskwa concentrated on the purity, naturalness, femininity, delicacy and vitality personified by the label from Marseilles. These values are physically present in the American Vintage shops, for example with a live tree to symbolise nature, as well as interiors which are very refined, pure, calm and sensorial. Yvann uses his intuition in the act of creation and choice of products to conform to 3 conditions: wellbeing, visual ergonomics and the subject matter. Defining the ideal boutique for a label is still an intellectual process and an act of real collaboration between the client and the architect. When a customer leaves a boutique, they must have the impression of having experienced a unique poetic and fulfilling experience.Yvann Pluskwa also presented certain of his works shown at the French Terreau Exhibition at the 15th Venice Biennale, such as the Sormiou sports and play park created by his firm of architects.

Végétalement Provence - Vincent Faraco, Co-founder, and Marijke Zijlstra Samb, Communication & Press Manager
Vincent Faraco founded Végétalement Provence with Jean-Marc Delabre based on the idea of an ideal company which offers good products and good services. This company is different from the major international cosmetics groups by virtue of its natural, organic and technical products, made principally from plants. As a leader in this niche market they are continuously investing in Research and Development. The most important words used by Vincent Faraco to describe his company are « technical » and « plant based ».For Végétalement Provence it is very important to respect their values of preserving artisanal craftsmanship and the continuous motivation to do things properly and well. Several well known personalities have adopted this innovative vision, for example the American colourist Rodolphe and the French fashion designer Isabel Marrant. A philosophy which is not only eco-friendly but also generous, represented clearly by Vincent Faraco's words: « Giving makes you richer ». Végétalement Provence shows their environmental values by creating plant based products where a large part of the raw materials comes from our Mediterranean area. As well as being in numerous concept stores, Végétalement Provence is also present around the world, from Russia to California. Their products pay particular attention to the desires and requirements of their buyers, notwithstanding the diversity of their customer base. In fact they have three types of buyer: eco-friendly citizens; technical purists who demand a particularly high level of performance from the products; and businessmen who want to increase sales by proposing high value-added products. Today, this success story continues to develop with a new range of tisane herbal teas. The creativity and generosity of the company's management bodes well for the future, allying innovation and human values. This company is full of optimism and proves that anything is possible and that with the necessary motivation and hard work we can live our passions and fulfil our projects.  

The team from the Students Union of the Masters Degree in Fashion and Textile Metiers: Natacha Nicolas, Pauline Delsert, Li Li, Natalya Kim, Amélie Thibert 

Click HERE to consult the Rencontres de la Mode-Fashion Contacts Programme 

Au centre Dominique Barbiery, entouré des étudiants du Master Mode (AMU)

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