Not so long ago, Fashion Museums were told to increase their collections only with items from recognised couturiers, and to concentrate their programmes on the history of fashion. During the '80s, with the arrival of new fashion designers such as Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, Jean-Paul Gaultier, just to mention three, the established codes were shaken up, and from then on the Fashion Museums gradually integrated new designers into their collections and programmes. For example, the Galliera Museum in Paris had an exhibition of Azzedine Alaïa's work in 2013, and Jean-Paul Gaultier had a show at the Grand Palais in 2015.
Since 1986 Marseilles had been a fashion incubator city, providing new inspirations and a new place for fashion designers. The Maison Mode Méditerranée gave the city of Marseilles a Contemporary Fashion Museum, created by Maryline Bellieud-Vigouroux. To define the identity of its vestimentary heritage, she gave 'Carte Blanche' to young curators like Catherine Örmen, Olivier Saillard and Sylvie Richoux.
Today the collections of the Marseilles Fashion Museum and the Maison Mode Méditerranée (MMM) have together more than 8,000 pieces, including some of the most well known names, but also prototypes and models of numerous designers who were just starting their labels, like Isabel Marant, Corinne Cobson, Rémy Daumas, Christophe Lemaire... and Fred Sathal, a designer & visual artist born in Marseilles.
In 2004, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the creation of her label, the Fashion Museum put on her first exhibition "Mon Antre, Sathal Créatures". It included 80 exceptional pieces, with some shown in the exhibition 'Que Je t'aime' at the Museum of Decorative Arts, Fashion and Ceramics at the Château Borély, as part of the cultural season MP 2018 Marseille Quel Amour. The MMM continues this cultural open-mindedness with the different Museums in Marseilles, particularly concerning the creation of Fashion in the Mediterranean through its OpenMyMed Festival and its OpenMyMed Prize.