The Maison Mode Méditerranée (MMM) produced the OpenMyMed 2019 exhibition: "Opus on the creation of fashion in the Mediterranean" at Marseille's Museum of Decorative Arts, Fashion and Ceramics at the Château Borély. This with the help of the artistic directors Yacine Aouadi, Carte Blanche guest of honour at the 2016 OpenMyMed Festival, and Matthieu Pabiot, fashion designer and President of AOUADI Haute Couture fashion house, and in partnership with the City and Museums of Marseille.
This exhibition celebrates three decades dedicated to the creation of Fashion in the Mediterranean; a synthesis turned towards the future.
The Fashion Gallery is transformed into a ghost ball where the creations from the collections of the MMM and Château Borély twirl in a spirit of transmission; that of the children of the Mediterranean who have become Great Designers: Azzedine Alaïa born in the country of Jasmine, namely Tunisia, or Yves Saint Laurent inspired by the country of the distant sunset, Morocco.
The Billiard Room welcomes a "Tower of Babel" bringing together the cosmopolitan creations of the thirty Laureates of the OpenMyMed Prize, organised each year by the MMM since 2010. Coming from eleven countries around the Mediterranean, they symbolise an universal eclecticism rather than a fashion style movement, a figurehead of decentralised creativity.
Successive guests of honour of the OpenMyMed Festival, initiated by the Maison Mode Méditérranée in 2016, Yacine Aouadi, Simon Porte-Jacquemus and Christelle Kocher, present here the essence of their styles developed in their respective eponymous labels.
Here are below the official photos of the exhibition taken by the photographer Baptiste Le Quiniou.
Born in 1980, Yacine Aouadi is the youngest of 5 children family originally from Algeria. He grew up in the neighbourhood in the north of Marseilles. At 25 he leaves for Paris to study fashion design at the Studio Berçot. After getting his diploma he joined the Balmain fashion house as a stylist. Motivated by the desire to express himself other than through a creative studio, he created his eponymous label in 2015. After his first collection, presented at the Grand Palais (Paris), Yacine Aouadi was invited to be part of the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows, and his creations straightaway attracted the attention of the international actresses Cate Blanchett and Kirsten Dunst. The same first collection, entitled « 13’015 », was also the subject of an exhibition initiated and produced by the Maison Mode Méditerranée, both at the MuCEM and the Château Borély in 2016…
For the exhibition, the Drawing Room of the Château Borély was transformed into a surrealist temple of disco - which could have been painted by the brush of Dali - where the disco ball irradiated seven fashion figures by the couturier Yacine Aouadi, converging towards infinity. The mannequins with gold hands and faces, play at being chameleons with their decor, to better accentuate the delicacy of their attire: the precision of the cut, the mastery of volumes, the nobleness of the fabrics, the richness of the embroidery... which distinguishes the Haute Couture.
His work is also exhibited in the chapel, where a bride is surrounded by a constellation of golden disco balls. In the bathroom he presents a black dress with sleeves adorned with pearls, next to the bath filled with Swarovski crystals.
Produced by the Maison Mode Méditerranée, the aim of this exhibition is to present the creative diversity of the 30 laureates of OpenMyMed from 2010 to 2018, who represent 11 countries from the southern Mediterranean.
The Mediterranean has always been a place where different people meet, ideal for discussing and exchanging ideas and for all forms of creativity. Fashion is a witness of this reality: a first "Mediterranean fashion movement", around emblematic figures such as Yves Saint Laurent, Azzedine Alaïa and Christian Lacroix, is today expressed through a new generation which is rich in diversities.
Turning upside down the established codes of a classic museum hanging of artworks, here Yacine Aouadi and Matthieu Pabiot offer us a scenography and staging which is both unexpected and avant-garde, somewhere between a fashion design session and performance art.
Les 30 Lauréats
Fashion Design Ecole Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, Institut Français de Mode (IFM), London College of Fashion
Major de promotion Fashion Design ESMOD Tunis
Caroline PERDRIX & Alexia TRONEL
Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (Caroline), Sciences Politiques et Economie Internationale (Alexia)
Corella Arts School, Rioja Higher School of Design, Spain, ESAD College of Art and Design, Matosinhos, Portugal
Nir GOETA & Rotem MITZ-GOETA
Shenkar College of Design
- IL ETAIT UN FIL - OpenMyMed 2017 Laureate
Higher Technical Certificate (BTS) in Cosmetology
Alix de MOUSSAC & Aurélie Grandemenge
Financial Strategy and Marketing
Higher School for Fashion Design, Paris (ESMOD)
Ylan & Davy DAHAN
Entrepreneurship and Management (Ylan), Management and Finance (Davy)
Fashion Design and Garment Prototyping at ICC Mode - the International Institute for Creation and Fashion Sewing, Marseille
Fashion Design at the La Cambre Visual Arts School, Brussels
Graduate in Fashion Design and Textiles, Castel Branco School of Applied Arts
- ELIRAN NARGASSI - OpenMyMed 2017 Laureate
Graduate in Engineering and Design, Shenkar College
- NO SEASON ATELIER - OpenMyMed 2017 Laureate
Professional Baccalaureate in Arts and Crafts, Marseilles
- OCCIDENTE- OpenMyMed 2016 Laureate
Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology New York, the ESMOD Higher School for Fashion Design and Techniques, Paris
- OKHTEIN- OpenMyMed 2017 Laureates
Aya et Mounaz ABDELRAOUF
Graduate in Communications and Media Images, and in Marketing and Communications, the American University of Cairo
Winner of the Annual Prize from Tajima Europe, a partner of the Maison Mode Méditerranée
- PAOLO ERRICO- Lauréat OpenMyMed 2010
The University of Urbino
- PETJA ZOREC - OpenMyMed 2017 Laureates
Oblikovna School of Design and Photography, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering Ljubljana, Fashion Design
Graphic Design at the University of Beirut
Stylism and Fashion at the Studio Berçot, Lebanese Academy of Fine Arts
Sarah HERMEZ, Tracy MOUSSI & George ROUHANA
Parsons School New York
- SUSANA BETTENCOURT - Lauréat OpenMyMed 2017
Parsons School New York
- T.A.G.G. Lauréat OpenMyMed 2018
Brand Management, New York State University, Domus Academy in Milan
- TRES - OpenMyMed 2018 Laureates
Noy GOZ, Noa GUR & Dafna RUBIN
Shenkar Fashion Design School Tel-Aviv
Master Management Média Kedge School Marseille
- ZYNE - OpenMyMed 2018 Laureates
Zineb BRITEL & Laura Pujol
Graduated from the ESMOD - Higher School for Fashion Design and Techniques, Paris; Saint Martin’s London, Modapelle Milan for Zineb and the International School for Marketing Luxury - EIML, Paris
Through his choice of colors and forms, with sometimes daring proportions, after around twenty collections Simon Porte Jacquemus provides us with a creative, fun and poetic universe, echoing his native Provence and its culture.
His garments, which have a marked identity and sculptural look, between wearable reality and conceptual fashion, tell us different stories, his story. Self-taught, the child from the South “gone up” to Paris, obtained in 2015 the LVMH Prize Special Jury Award and has since won-over numerous international stars.
In 2017, he succeeded Yacine Aouadi as guest of honour at the OpenMyMed Festival, produced by the Maison Mode Méditerranée, and delivered a real declaration of love for Marseille through his runway show « les Santons de Provence » and his double exhibition « Marseille je t’aime » [Marseille I love you] at the Mucem and the Museum of Contemporary Art [MAC], where photographs and dance performances opened a dialogue between plastic arts, the body and his work.
Garments, photos, runway shows, the universes of Christelle Kocher, a Graduate from the Central Saint Martin’s School in London, are cosmopolitan and contrasting. Between heritage couture, urban culture and contemporary art, the garments she proposes must be comfortable and wearable, a real projection of women, not fantasized. Mixing the codes of femininity and androgyny, she puts a particular accent on embroidered signature dresses, specially designed in collaboration with the arts and crafts houses Lesage, Montex and Lemarié, member of the Chanel Group and where she has been the artistic director since 2010.
In 2016 she was nominated for the LVMH Prize, and in 2018 was the new guest of honour of the OpenMyMed Festival, produced by the Maison Mode Méditerranée (MMM).
In unexpected locations such as the J1 hangar, an industrial building on the Mediterranean waterfront, and in the Rue de la République, in premises waiting to be renovated, she provided a very personal Carte Blanche using contemporary visual artists in order to create, like in a vast workshop, a dialogue between very different disciplines.
We would like to give our warmest thanks for their work to our two Artistic Directors, Yacine Aouadi and Matthieu Pabiot, as well as to the City and Museums of Marseille for their support.
We would also like to thank our thirty 2019 OpenMyMed Laureates, as well as Simon Porte Jacquemus, Christelle Kocher, Marie-Josée Linou, Farid Aouadi, Neur_1, Fabienne Vandenbrouck (PAT VKX), Yasmine Amara, Karim Aouadi, Nacer Aghioul (Senso Diffusion), Georges Benhamou (Segetel), Bilel Bouchoit (L’Atelier du Siècle), François Boukeroucha, Fabrice Cazenave, Jean-Paul Camargo, Sebastien Cortes, Luc Devouassoux, Laurence Donnay, Greg Gex, Chantal Grauby, Gildas Laroche, Nadine Lopez, Nathalie de Napoli, Cécile Ramos, Aurore Tomasi (Swarovski), Stéphanie Deshais, Alexandra LeGarrec, Yragael (Enjoy Models), Baptiste Lequiniou, Anaïs Altot, Dorothée Henon, Marlène Gérard.
The MMM would also like to thank all their sponsors and partners: the Chanel Fashion House and the LVMH Group; as well as the McArthurGlen Group, Tajima Europe, Kaporal, American Vintage, Sessùn, Gas Bijoux, Aix-Marseille University, Chérie FM Radio and Cofrad Mannequins.
Finally we would like to thank the team at the Maison Mode Méditerranée: Maryline Bellieud-Vigouroux, Matthieu Gamet, Jayne Estève Curé, Jina Luciani, Coralie Martini, Henri-Abraham Soumah & Lucas Vales.
The 2019 OpenMyMed exhibition is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday from 9.30am to 6pm.
Château Borely: The Museum of Decorative Arts, Fashion and Ceramics.
132 Avenue Clot Bey